Sunday 1 October 2017

A Museum for Mumbai : A bun-maska for thought

This new year’s day, I spent my noon convincing the receptionist at ‘The Museum of History of Catalonia’ to open up as advertised. We were visiting Barcelona around that festive time of the year and probably I had my stakes high expecting them to open on Numero Uno of 2017. Perhaps, that was just the museum enthusiast in me.

So, my father-in-law gave up practising his Spanish or rather trying to understand the local Catalan and we made our way to Barcelonnetta beach instead. The promenade reminded me none other aapli Mumbai, our Marine Drive.

My colleagues do ask me about Mumbai or India and express their desire to visit it someday. “Oh, The Golden Triangle”, pat comes my answer. Kerala for people seeking quiet retreats. Andaman or Ladakh for the adventurous. But rarely do I suggest Mumbai. … if you are going to Goa that is. Yes, Goa doesn’t feature on my top list. (I am willing to have an argument over this.)

“Perhaps, you could do 48 hours in Mumbai. Don’t forget to book the Taj though”, I add. I don’t think Mumbai would count on an average tourist map. One could really do the city in a day if they wanted.

But at the same time, I do have a bond with my birth city. The global me thinks, what will I show my child at Mumbai when say they are 8 or 9? Say, in another decade’s time. You would say take him to a local playground. But that’s where the new station is planned! It wouldn’t be there anymore. “Your mother had watched some amazing concerts here”, I will point out. “Oh and that was Dadar beach”.
Of course, I could take them to the Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj Museum. I could tell them how visiting that Museum at 15 by herself was their mother’s first travel adventure.

How about a ferry to see the statue of Maharaj? No, I don’t want a Statue La Grande of Chattrapati Maharaj in middle of the Arabian Ocean. I have deep admiration for the king’s bravery and statesmanship but I don’t think spending ex-chequers money for that monument is a wise idea.

Apologies, but I don’t want a tour of the slums, I don’t think making a living exhibition of someone’s lifestyle is ethically correct. Did you say there were two options instead? The usual shanty towns and the masses of ugly tall buildings sprawled all over?

Nor, do I want to visit the many Socials opened at every corner with less than average fare on their menus. Maybe I could treat them to the Caramel Custard or proper bun maska at Café Military instead. If it is still around, of course.

I would be delighted if there were state of art facilities at Elephanta Caves. We could break the Caves image as the scandalous shack haven for average couples seeking a solace in the city. We could add a sound and light show at Bandra Fort explaining the Fort’s history.

Perhaps, something else might help my children appreciate Mumbai and inform them about the changes which transformed Mumbai in a decade’s time.

How about a Museum for Mumbai?

I would certainly take my child to a Museum – a place which celebrates the 18 million Mumbaikars who have stayed together through riots, terror attacks, poor infrastructure hazards and torrential rains. Spirit of Mumbai as they say. Or even our cool Chalta Hai attitude.

But, I do wonder if my children would ask me about the survivor’s fate in all the mishaps which occur in Mumbai. Did their families get a compensation, where the guilty bought to justice, was life same for them again or their families?

Would the Museum tell also the survivors story in a compelling way as much as that of a Bollywood super star who made it big in India’s city of dreams?

I wonder if my children would equate the very celebrated Spirit of Mumbai with Mumbai’s Chalta Hai attitude. For lack of accountability in Mumbaikars and failure to stand up to their rights?

What will they think when they come to know about the recent stampede at Elphinstone station in the Museum? That was the very local station which their mother travelled from every single day in her Mumbai commute days.

Would we record in the Museum about the inquiry which bought the concerned civic department to justice for their failure to monitor the stampede or the team who failed to recognise a need for new bridge looking at the ever increasing crowds during the last decade?

I hope there is an answer in that Museum.

Otherwise, how would we explain our children that their existence matters? I am sure all the family members in India get excited enough at the thought of grandchildren just when a couple has got engaged. Then why is it that their lives don’t matter. Would the relatives say Aur ek bacha kar lo? Or do they quote the Geeta and say, Death is but inevitable? Mar gaya bichara.

I really hope that a strong wave of change grips all the Mumbaikars. Not just saying #Mumbaikar #cool #different #liberal #Delhisucks.

That they shout of loud and beat drums not just during Ganpati. But that they claim the amount of money they pay for shoddy infrastructure. For better governance and civic sense.

For Accountability. Not Chalta Hai.

Show the World What Spirit of Mumbai actually stands for!

P.S. We did visit the Museum of History of Catalonia the next day at Barcelona. I learnt about the history of Catalan life and their take on Modernism. The Moroccan immigration wave. I wonder what the fate decides for Catalans today as they take a referendum much to the opposition of the Spanish government. 
Barcelona city from Park Guell






Saturday 20 May 2017

Once upon a time... at Malta

I woke up gently as a light sun ray touched my face. I kept gazing outside the glass windows watching the horizon change its colours from light grey to a mellow yellow. Eternal bliss for a morning person like me!

I kept admiring as a small island passed and looked at my darling husband by my side. He was still deep in sleep. Ah! My Night Owl! How could he miss the first sun rays and gentle Mediterranean breeze? As an hour passed by of pure nothingness, I was struck with joy….

An island with fortified walls and peculiar tall domes jotted throughout that region. I had never seen such a landscape before. “Yeh kaunsi nagari hai?

 Did I just wake up to a dream or gone back in time? I looked back into the room. Aditya was still fast asleep. I pinched myself, rubbed my eyes. No, it wasn’t Jules in wonderland….this was for real.

"Wake up Adi! Wake up Adi! We are here….this is MALTA"

I had never imagined to be like this. Infact, I had barely researched anything before this cruise holiday.
The MS Splendida slowly approached the city port, dotted with colourful doors.


“Lets go! Lets go!” We got ready in a jiffy and greeted Adi’s parents who participated equally in our enthusiasm.

Malta, a small country of only 316 sq. km. and 5 lakh people, what treasures did it hold? It was our last stop on a week long cruise holiday. The place seemed so efficient and welcoming with a picturesque shopping plaza at the Valletta, Grand Harbour and fleet of public transport.

We joked as our taxi driver proudly showed us the President’s residence and the gardens adjoining them. The gardens would be the size of any local park in England. We could cover this place in a day! Much to the agony of our male members of our family, our driver, drove us to their glass and ceramic factories which was an ex-Military habitat converted into a Crafts Village. “Look at our indigenous handicrafts Sir”, he remarked. "Commission times", my father in law chuckled.


My mum in law refused to come out of the massive showroom as she admired each and every exquisite piece. (Ladies, see it to believe it) Even I pleaded with her to leave as we had other sights to see.

“Only an hour please”, as we approached the gates of Mdina town. All of us made a face as what stood before our eyes was a priceless experience…the Silent City, only meant for pedestrians. It enticed us by its classic magnificent gate and a draw bridge which lay on a moat. A hamlet and a city in itself with its golden walls overlooking the sea. The original capital of Malta. Its narrow lanes and cobbled streets transported you back to the medieval era.  Where the knights marched and maidens sold fruits in baskets and children wiggled into w­­­­­­­­ooden doors all painted in blues, reds, yellows and greens.

I touched the walls of this city wanting to feel a piece of history. This was straight out of fairy tale.

As the evening approached and the winter light started diminishing, it was time to sail away with MSC Splendia's
Conte parito....Goodbye Malta (Sarah Brightman and Andrea Bocelli)

As I stood still watching Malta fading into the horizon, leaving the magnificent silhouettes into the purple sky, I actually revered the pride of the taxi driver. His ancestors had stood test of time. How a small island had fought to kept its pride, how it had evolved with various Catholic and Arab rulers. Their architecture, food and even language was an amalgamation of all the rulers. The islanders had built incredible resistance during World War II and served as a reliable British naval base.



Malta is perhaps a great example how a small island nation had evolved over centuries of influence from mighty outsiders and the incredible resilience by its people despite all the changes it faced. 

Much like its strong fortified walls.  









Saturday 25 February 2017

One Decade, Split into Two. The Journey So far.

It feels like yesterday when I turned 21.( Hmmm..maybe not really) Naïve, hard-working, dreamy-eyed perhaps like any other person at that age. Full of ideals, idols and beans.

How life has changed since! I am still that hard-working and dreamy-eyed girl. Although, not that naïve any longer. My one grey hair can certainly vouch for that! The 20’s have certainly broken the rose tinted glasses. Heartbreaks, Adversity, Anxiety, Disappointments (not just from the boys), Depression and Letting go.

I have battled them all and I will battle them again.

Just, a little stronger this time nonetheless wiser.

There I was at 21, standing in front of the prestigious buildings in the business districts in Mumbai with a simple wish to work there in my lifetime. Little did I know, that I will land up a placement in that very building within the next six months! Here I am at 29, walking across the bridge every morning, with the giant ferris wheel in the back-drop in one of the demanding cities in the world.

My twenties have been split into two. The first half in Bombay and second in London.

Do I love my present? Yes. And do I sneer at my Bombay self? No.

It wouldn’t have been possible without the other.

It is but One Decade, split into Two.

Bollywood nights and ice-cream + coffee lates,
Beer, Reds and Pimms dates.

Nerves with round rotis to dishing out fish moilees.

Boarding a crowded local to whizzing into tubes,
from Mum’s packed dabbas to sandwiches and Pret soups.

Putting on dancing heels to punching it out to kill,
playing with words and sometimes with art of quill.

Evenings by the Arabian to walks along the Thames,
thirst for the Monsoon to awaiting glimpses of sunshine.

First Day First Shows to Netflix overdose,
It is but One Decade, split into Two.

Attentive listening, making friends all over again,
winning colleagues.

Hacks to save money and ways to spend it.
Planning great trips, experiencing new customs,
and recognising that people all over the world are but the same.

Knowing immediate ways to get drunk and curing hangovers.
Being fed breakfast fruit (Dad, who else!) to forgetting to feed your house plants (and eventually killing them)
Finding that perfect gift for someone and accepting you won’t get any in return.

Oh yes, and exams, countless hours of preparing for them, those horrendous nights
(Not really a night person, always studied during the day. But the night gives an extra touch)

And after all those certificates and degrees, acknowledging the bittersweet test called Life itself!

Farewell My twenties, Adieu!
It is but One Decade, split into Two.

(Still learning : Wearing makeup, taking a selfie and to Swim)