Prague Tales : Discovering the dark , mysterious city

Prague! Where is that? Most of us reacted when we saw the movie Rockstar, many pronounced it as ‘Pregue’ or something of sorts. Thanks Bollywood, you added one more European city to the list. So as hubby was dilly-dallying his plans about summer holidays, I checked with my friends if they would like to have a quick go at the city. So the three of us agreed to ditch our husbands and venture to Prague over a pre-weekend. (Pre-weekend huh? Welcome to life of JK where weekend starts earlier than most mortals)

Beautiful buildings at Prague

Other than discovering a city by myself, I was also happy that I would get time knowing two new people- MJ and MP. Perhaps the six degree of separation rule holds true. I had bumped into  vivacious MP at my local gym and although we had not exactly spent tons of time together, we did get comfortable enough to tolerate each other for next 3 days. MJ, I met her in fellow Indians locality group and we convinced the funny foodblogger to join us.

As I started my research for this trip, I was fascinated by this capital of Czech Republic. A country engulfed in rich history and culture. There was certainly more to Prague than Nargis Fakhri running down a bridge in her long gown at dawn.

As we set out with a map (we left the job to MP), to explore the city on foot, we were bedazzled by every building in Stare Mestro aka Old Town, every nook and turn we came across a pretty structure. Not just the architecture, but even beautifully painted walls.

We prayed that MJ could make the long walks through the cobbled streets as she was in a bad state of health before the trip. But it was MJ who excitedly pointed out towards something interesting at every corner.

Lost in Prague

We lost our way many a times in Prague ki gallis on our way towards getting authentic and reasonably priced Czech cuisine.  As we passed the stunning Astronomical clock and the famous tourist filled square of Prague and St. Vitrus Cathedral , we reached the Jewish Quarter of the city. 

Astronomical clock

Where is this place V.Korkovna? Each of us argued of a different direction, only to find the restaurant in front of us. Thank god, we are carnivores and beer lovers as we flipped through the menu. I adventured into the much recommended ‘Moravian sparrow’ but it did not appeal much to my Indian tastebuds whilst MP happily dug into her rabbit.

Moravian sparrow

Dispersed crowds at Castle District

Post lunch, we struggled to get into the right tram to the Castle which stood on the other side of river Vllata. The tram unwinded over the hill, giving us pretty views of the city until all of our attention was drawn towards the medieval castle district.

Castle District - Prague

It was early evening when we reached the Castle Complex and the crowds had dispersed. MJ and MP, made the most of it and took all sorts of pictures to the fullest. MJ stumbled across this shop ‘Manufactura’, a Czech artisan shop selling handmade toiletries and cute china. We loitered around the Castle district for a while following paths where our feet took us.

Speaking of feet, do you know the origins of your Bata footwear? Its Czech Republic. 

Pretty lanes of Prague

Cobbled paths of Prague

Tired and exhausted with our day’s adventures we took a short break and dragged ourselves again to see the city by the night. I am glad that we did! We licked a yummy gelato on our way to the Charles Bridge while walking the quite path way to see the lights on the river. 

Charles Bridge during the night is stark different from the crowded and local artist filled one during the day.

Ah! How surreal. Right out of a mysterious fairy tale.  This reminded my trip to Budapest, earlier in the year and ever more so when I saw couples cuddle on the benches on the river! 

(How priceless! Only if they even let couples hold hands at Marine drive)

Exhausted I sank into my bed, now if only Prince Charming was besides me in this fairy tale town! 

A date with Vienna

Schonbrunn. Credit.flickr.com/Stephen curtin

Here is where it started. Well, not location wise but this is where the apple cart was upset and Europe went ablaze, here we were remembering 100 years since the World War One at Schonbrunn Palace.

Schonbrunn which means beautiful spring was the family home (a huge one 66 rooms) of the Hofburg dynasty whose Prince Ferdinand was assassinated by a Yugoslavian national stirring the horrific war of the century.  Here, I was standing in disbelief admiring the gorgeous city views of Vienna from the Gloriette – the viewing terrace of the Schonbrunn. 

I don’t quite remember when I had seen Schonbrunn on television but was fascinated by the sheer beauty and grandeur of the place – the city of Mozart was always on wish list since then. I do not have a particular interest in royal families or particularly a patron of their shameless display of wealth. (nor any modern day corporate emperor’s either and thankfully royals do not enjoy prestige anymore) But I am always keen on history and the architecture of the Palaces or Castles built. (I may be unable to draw a single straight line but we claim to be family of famous architects)

The Schonbrunn is considered only second to Versailles in Europe and boasts of one of the oldest zoos in the world and a huge maze as also a labyrinth . To cover this huge palace, we were given only one hour by our tour guide! How unfair.... but we were in Vienna only for a day from Prague.

The Gloriette.Credit: Flickr.com/martinshuck

 So myself and my dear friend MP walked hurriedly from the Palace and up on the tiny hill to get the best views from the Gloriette and ran down quickly enough to see our guide at appointed departure time. Poor MJ could not enjoy the due to bad health. Run? Well, in the 30 C summer heat, we were drenched in sweat! 

Co-passengers who had not ventured this far had enjoyed an Afelstrudel making demonstration instead. Ahh! I missed this one as well, cried poor MJ.

Before we reached Schonbrunn, we went around the Ringstrasse, the grand boulevard in our mini bus, we were left wanting for more, on the right is the State opera announced the tour guide,  then you have the Natural History Musuem, the Parliament building, the Stadt Park ,and so on….. click , clickitety , click went my co-passengers trying to capture the grand architecture of the city. The city's grand boluvelard's simply floored us.

From morning until late at night, I ran from one object of interest to another, but it was always the buildings that held my primary interest. For hours I could stand in front of the Opera, for hours I could gaze at the Parliament; the whole Ringstrasse seemed to me like an enchantment out of The Thousand and One Nights.

                                                                                                          
                                            Adolf Hitler, Mein Kampf

(Passing thought: Hitler, as you may be aware had spent considerable time in his early years in Vienna. The school of art at Vienna had rejected him twice and here is where he thought that perhaps he was meant to do other things- epicentre for two wars Vienna)

Post Schonbrunn, we did a small walk around the Hofburg Palace, the huge (an understatement) residential complex of the Hosburg family which now houses the Austrian National Library (Hofbibliothek), the Imperial Treasury (Schatzkammer), the Burgtheater, the Spanish Riding School (Hofreitschule), the Imperial Horse Stables (Stallburg and Hofstallungen), and the Hofburg Congress Center. Ofcourse, we did not have  time to view the places from inside but the titillating tease continued to play in our minds.

Then we were led into vibrant bylanes of Vienna, onto the street leading to the gothic spires of St. stephen’s cathedral.

St Stephen's cathedral

 
MJ and MP went all biserk capturing every corner of the cathedral and we sat down on some steps nearby…. Mesmerised by the beautiful building. Before we could get any more comfortable, we dragged ourselves to Mozart’s house which lies just behind the cathedral. As expected we were flocked by vendors selling concert tickets. Some other time, we politely refused much to the dismay of the vendors.

We were given two hours of time for ourselves …… good enough for that Vienesse coffee. Vienna offers a relaxed coffee experience, many of the coffee houses will leave you undistributed for hours together. Do we go to the fancy sacher hotel – where Sacher Torte has its origins or old styled rustic Vienesse one? Let us not waste time hunting for these places, we agreed. We couldn’t resist the temptations anymore. We wanted it quick.

Afelstrudel

Simple Ice Coffee

So we sat down in one of a café in the main squares across the St. Stephen’s Cathredal absorbing all the exciting atmosphere around and indulging in the famous Affel Strudel , the Schnitzel and my well-presented Ice Coffee. The touristy café had a fat laminated menu card and boy do these people take their desserts seriously, each picture was eye pleasing.  
With such lovely places at disposal even the thought of Starbucks seemed a nightmare! Ummm....the lip smacking, moist, sweet Affel Strudel

My heart was lingering for more but we had to go back to Prague. Well, could not complain, we were on a date with Vienna. Vienna, the place were two young strangers fell in love in the movie Before Sunrise. So I thought to myself when I booked my day trip ticket from Prague, let me have a glimpse of Vienna, a brief date perhaps. A chance I had say.

Just like the two strangers from the movie, let  me see how I like it or I may regret few years that I was so close from Prague (four hours drive) but could not make it.

I was the jilted lover here – coming to the city of music and not experiencing any of the symphonies.

The date with this grand city was over, see you again Vienna. Sealed with a kiss.

Kanya Kumari to Kolkatta

Come December and Goa used to be thronged by the ‘Hippies’, a popular term which Indian aunties have described the western folk who '‘bared all’ on the golden beaches. Look at her, someone would nudge at the temple, pointing to a girl in a mini skirt with a huge backpack. She looked only sixteen. ‘’Their parents leave them alone and then they do these vulgar things’’. I didn’t’ bother listening to the remarks. For the seven year old me, the girls were awesome, travelling alone in a foreign land. 

In fact there may be so many Indian ladies young and old consumed by the wanderlust and yet whose dreams are shunned. Why? They are women.

How will my Beti go alone? The question parents ask so often has broken many a dreams. 

School in faraway place? No.

College in different town? No, will she be safe? Will get into bad habits. 

Job in different town? Nahi… koi baharwala ladka mil gaya toh. 

Achha, sasural in different town? Hesitation. Pata nahi kaise log honge! 

I agree safety is a concern but overprotection is yet another. Today education for girls is no longer a debate but I appeal to the new age parents of today – let your daughter roam freely in her own city, let her commute late hours from work, take that week long education trip, go for a hike in sahyadris, stay in a camp with boys and girls and travel to different parts of the world by herself. 

credit:flickr.com/rowenawaack

The more you let your daughter roam about freely, others will follow suit and the society will be not surprised to see women walking confidently at 12 midnight. For those who can afford, give your daughter a travel gift as she turns 16, let her go solo or in a group or an exchange program.  No, it does not have to be ‘phoren’ , there are so many beautiful places to see in India itself. Let the girl from Sikkim know the ways of Marathi household and Tamil enjoy eating dhoklas as much as idli sambars. Imagine how much this will be contribute to national integration ! Yet we refuse to send our Kanya Kumari all by herself to Kolkatta !! We are sadly not assured of safety in our own motherland. 

You are buying her gold for her birthday? Create a travel investment fund along with her education plan instead. She will certainly glitter on her wedding day, enriched with her experiences from travel and what a graceful bride she would be having interacted and mingled with different cultures.

Am I going the movie ‘Queen’ way, you may ask? Somewhere around, perhaps reinforcing it. I did not strike 100% chord with the movie, maybe because I have encouraging parents and I have travelled in groups and bit on my own. But I did hit a note when ‘Rani’ stays in a hostel with boys. I have good friends who are boys and after many ‘zordaar’ planned trips and subsequent drop out in numbers, my dreams of Zanskaar in Ladakh or attending a concert in Bangalore have flopped . 

I could have gone ahead with those trips but I would be the only girl !! ‘’ Come na, whats the problem?’’, ‘’Areeyyy’’’ and I would give some excuse… What a touchy subject to bring up at home! Although my parents knew who the ‘’boys’’ were, I could never get myself to ask them about it. Well, we have a long way to go…..

Why am I advocating travel for girls? Karan ‘Mulgi Phirli, Pragati Zali’.