A date with Vienna

Schonbrunn. Credit.flickr.com/Stephen curtin

Here is where it started. Well, not location wise but this is where the apple cart was upset and Europe went ablaze, here we were remembering 100 years since the World War One at Schonbrunn Palace.

Schonbrunn which means beautiful spring was the family home (a huge one 66 rooms) of the Hofburg dynasty whose Prince Ferdinand was assassinated by a Yugoslavian national stirring the horrific war of the century.  Here, I was standing in disbelief admiring the gorgeous city views of Vienna from the Gloriette – the viewing terrace of the Schonbrunn. 

I don’t quite remember when I had seen Schonbrunn on television but was fascinated by the sheer beauty and grandeur of the place – the city of Mozart was always on wish list since then. I do not have a particular interest in royal families or particularly a patron of their shameless display of wealth. (nor any modern day corporate emperor’s either and thankfully royals do not enjoy prestige anymore) But I am always keen on history and the architecture of the Palaces or Castles built. (I may be unable to draw a single straight line but we claim to be family of famous architects)

The Schonbrunn is considered only second to Versailles in Europe and boasts of one of the oldest zoos in the world and a huge maze as also a labyrinth . To cover this huge palace, we were given only one hour by our tour guide! How unfair.... but we were in Vienna only for a day from Prague.

The Gloriette.Credit: Flickr.com/martinshuck

 So myself and my dear friend MP walked hurriedly from the Palace and up on the tiny hill to get the best views from the Gloriette and ran down quickly enough to see our guide at appointed departure time. Poor MJ could not enjoy the due to bad health. Run? Well, in the 30 C summer heat, we were drenched in sweat! 

Co-passengers who had not ventured this far had enjoyed an Afelstrudel making demonstration instead. Ahh! I missed this one as well, cried poor MJ.

Before we reached Schonbrunn, we went around the Ringstrasse, the grand boulevard in our mini bus, we were left wanting for more, on the right is the State opera announced the tour guide,  then you have the Natural History Musuem, the Parliament building, the Stadt Park ,and so on….. click , clickitety , click went my co-passengers trying to capture the grand architecture of the city. The city's grand boluvelard's simply floored us.

From morning until late at night, I ran from one object of interest to another, but it was always the buildings that held my primary interest. For hours I could stand in front of the Opera, for hours I could gaze at the Parliament; the whole Ringstrasse seemed to me like an enchantment out of The Thousand and One Nights.

                                                                                                          
                                            Adolf Hitler, Mein Kampf

(Passing thought: Hitler, as you may be aware had spent considerable time in his early years in Vienna. The school of art at Vienna had rejected him twice and here is where he thought that perhaps he was meant to do other things- epicentre for two wars Vienna)

Post Schonbrunn, we did a small walk around the Hofburg Palace, the huge (an understatement) residential complex of the Hosburg family which now houses the Austrian National Library (Hofbibliothek), the Imperial Treasury (Schatzkammer), the Burgtheater, the Spanish Riding School (Hofreitschule), the Imperial Horse Stables (Stallburg and Hofstallungen), and the Hofburg Congress Center. Ofcourse, we did not have  time to view the places from inside but the titillating tease continued to play in our minds.

Then we were led into vibrant bylanes of Vienna, onto the street leading to the gothic spires of St. stephen’s cathedral.

St Stephen's cathedral

 
MJ and MP went all biserk capturing every corner of the cathedral and we sat down on some steps nearby…. Mesmerised by the beautiful building. Before we could get any more comfortable, we dragged ourselves to Mozart’s house which lies just behind the cathedral. As expected we were flocked by vendors selling concert tickets. Some other time, we politely refused much to the dismay of the vendors.

We were given two hours of time for ourselves …… good enough for that Vienesse coffee. Vienna offers a relaxed coffee experience, many of the coffee houses will leave you undistributed for hours together. Do we go to the fancy sacher hotel – where Sacher Torte has its origins or old styled rustic Vienesse one? Let us not waste time hunting for these places, we agreed. We couldn’t resist the temptations anymore. We wanted it quick.

Afelstrudel

Simple Ice Coffee

So we sat down in one of a café in the main squares across the St. Stephen’s Cathredal absorbing all the exciting atmosphere around and indulging in the famous Affel Strudel , the Schnitzel and my well-presented Ice Coffee. The touristy café had a fat laminated menu card and boy do these people take their desserts seriously, each picture was eye pleasing.  
With such lovely places at disposal even the thought of Starbucks seemed a nightmare! Ummm....the lip smacking, moist, sweet Affel Strudel

My heart was lingering for more but we had to go back to Prague. Well, could not complain, we were on a date with Vienna. Vienna, the place were two young strangers fell in love in the movie Before Sunrise. So I thought to myself when I booked my day trip ticket from Prague, let me have a glimpse of Vienna, a brief date perhaps. A chance I had say.

Just like the two strangers from the movie, let  me see how I like it or I may regret few years that I was so close from Prague (four hours drive) but could not make it.

I was the jilted lover here – coming to the city of music and not experiencing any of the symphonies.

The date with this grand city was over, see you again Vienna. Sealed with a kiss.

Kanya Kumari to Kolkatta

Come December and Goa used to be thronged by the ‘Hippies’, a popular term which Indian aunties have described the western folk who '‘bared all’ on the golden beaches. Look at her, someone would nudge at the temple, pointing to a girl in a mini skirt with a huge backpack. She looked only sixteen. ‘’Their parents leave them alone and then they do these vulgar things’’. I didn’t’ bother listening to the remarks. For the seven year old me, the girls were awesome, travelling alone in a foreign land. 

In fact there may be so many Indian ladies young and old consumed by the wanderlust and yet whose dreams are shunned. Why? They are women.

How will my Beti go alone? The question parents ask so often has broken many a dreams. 

School in faraway place? No.

College in different town? No, will she be safe? Will get into bad habits. 

Job in different town? Nahi… koi baharwala ladka mil gaya toh. 

Achha, sasural in different town? Hesitation. Pata nahi kaise log honge! 

I agree safety is a concern but overprotection is yet another. Today education for girls is no longer a debate but I appeal to the new age parents of today – let your daughter roam freely in her own city, let her commute late hours from work, take that week long education trip, go for a hike in sahyadris, stay in a camp with boys and girls and travel to different parts of the world by herself. 

credit:flickr.com/rowenawaack

The more you let your daughter roam about freely, others will follow suit and the society will be not surprised to see women walking confidently at 12 midnight. For those who can afford, give your daughter a travel gift as she turns 16, let her go solo or in a group or an exchange program.  No, it does not have to be ‘phoren’ , there are so many beautiful places to see in India itself. Let the girl from Sikkim know the ways of Marathi household and Tamil enjoy eating dhoklas as much as idli sambars. Imagine how much this will be contribute to national integration ! Yet we refuse to send our Kanya Kumari all by herself to Kolkatta !! We are sadly not assured of safety in our own motherland. 

You are buying her gold for her birthday? Create a travel investment fund along with her education plan instead. She will certainly glitter on her wedding day, enriched with her experiences from travel and what a graceful bride she would be having interacted and mingled with different cultures.

Am I going the movie ‘Queen’ way, you may ask? Somewhere around, perhaps reinforcing it. I did not strike 100% chord with the movie, maybe because I have encouraging parents and I have travelled in groups and bit on my own. But I did hit a note when ‘Rani’ stays in a hostel with boys. I have good friends who are boys and after many ‘zordaar’ planned trips and subsequent drop out in numbers, my dreams of Zanskaar in Ladakh or attending a concert in Bangalore have flopped . 

I could have gone ahead with those trips but I would be the only girl !! ‘’ Come na, whats the problem?’’, ‘’Areeyyy’’’ and I would give some excuse… What a touchy subject to bring up at home! Although my parents knew who the ‘’boys’’ were, I could never get myself to ask them about it. Well, we have a long way to go…..

Why am I advocating travel for girls? Karan ‘Mulgi Phirli, Pragati Zali’.

Cornwall via Achara - Nostalgia

Last August, we made a road trip to Tintagel, Cornwall a coastal village in South West of England. Cornwall is renowned for its wild moorland landscapes and its long and varied coastline. Undoubtedly, the road was picturesque and we had more than our share of delicious sea food. 

Lavender landscapes of cornwall. Credit:s: Alok Barsode

Yet, from the beginning of the trip, I was in a ‘rewind’ mode, a bit nostalgic. For reasons unknown, I was recollecting my innumerable road trips to ‘Achara’, my ancestral village. This was long before the Konkan railway was constructed and a Mumbaikar had to make a long road journey to reach his native home.

As a very young child, I barely remember reaching ‘Achara’ in daylight as the enthusiasm at the start of the trip in Mumbai would have died out in exhaustion at 9.00 p.m. when we reached the village.

 My baby sleep would be awoken only by the call of a cuckoo and the gentle rays of sunlight passing through the ‘Criss-cross’ patterned large windows. While the elders relaxed in the front courtyard with a cup of tea, I set myself a task of collecting the ‘Champa’ and ‘Aboli’ flowers. The rest of the day was spent merrily at the water tank and well or spotting a frog or telling a cousin very bravely that I stood still when I saw a snake!

I can safely say that I have spent more time at Achara compared to my cousins. In fact I gathered a lot of facts about Achara and neighbouring areas thanks to my interaction as a child with the ladies at the Pickle factory. 

‘’Tu kuthe rahtes?’’ ‘’ Gawde wadi’’ , ‘’Para kade’’ , ‘’Dongar wadi’’…. And then I used to perhaps irritate them with more questions only to be whisked away. The downside of frolicking my time at the factory is that my nose repels to the smell of pickles!! 

One of the highlights of the trip was to go to the ‘Nagazari’ and hear about some mystery stories revolving its source. A dip in the water would make you ‘clean’ or a ghost taking you away if you washed yourself at night. 

After relishing some Jackfruit Bhajji, Rice and Mangoes, I would sit with my mother near the Shree Rama temple next to our home and she would read a book to me from the Achara library. The Shree Rama temple stands on an elevated slope and it gives an overview of the Coconut plantations and the vast green rice fields. On a hot May afternoon this would be the top place for a cool breeze.

Mango Mania. Credit:flickr.com/PL Tandon

I like my seafood this way. :D flickr.com/Ankur P

They say that the best things in life come free. The Shree Rama temple is a top seat to listen to the music playing at the Shree Rameshwar temple. Close your eyes and open your ears, it is simply divine! 

As a city bred, I used to be amazed at the impeccable talent the local boys and girls have in music. How one could excel so well without any formal training or is it a blessing which comes with the sewa to Shree Rameshwar? No wonder Achara has produced some notable Music artists of its time. 

Almost everyone in the neighbouring villages and in Konkan pays their dutiful respects at Shree Rameshwar. One feels a unique spiritual powers just upon the entry to the temple complex. The rest is a very personal experience indeed.

The festival of Shree Ram Navami is spectacular indeed. Thousands of people gather religiously for this distinctive festival which unifies the ‘Shiva’ and ‘Vaishnava’ sect of Hindu way of life. It is an honour indeed to be a part of the family at whose home the original idol of Shree Rama resides at the rest of the year. Year by year, I have closely observed a family member getting ready for the sewa during the festival and dutifully doing the 14 day pooja. 

As for the rest of us it was all about having a good time with the family and making most of the simple ‘jatra’ at the festival.

I would also insist on watching the ‘Dashavtari’ at the Shree Rameshwar temple and every year my request would be turned down as it would be held only late at night ! I think, I was taken once to watch it but I fell asleep as the show was delayed. The next morning, cursing myself, I kept asking ‘what happened next’? I have heard that the pomp of ‘Dashavtari’ is dying and I really urge everyone concerned that efforts should be taken to keep the art alive. Dashavtari on Facebook anyone?

Lastly, no trip to Achara would be complete without a walk to the very pristine and virgin Achara Bandar before dusk. After making sand castles, bathing in the water and dancing hop-ti-hop on the coast, my heart sank when it was time to go home. The indulgence in garma garam kanda bhajjis and tea didn’t make it any better.

 I love going to a seaside place. The sea speaks to me, inspires me, calms me in pain and adds to the merriment if I am in a good company. 

Yet during the Cornwall trip I thought something was amiss. Tintagel has a seaside fort (reminding me of Malvan) and also a so called ‘spirtual place’ to its credit. Achara is much developed village today with colleges and hospital vis-à-vis Tintagel which is a sleepy village. Was it the absence of coconut trees and the dense greenery or the lack of spice from the Crab dish? Was I trying to locate familiar friendly people from Achara? 

The Malvan fort\credits:flickr.com-Elroy Serrao

Breathless ! Credit: Alok Barsode

As a growing teenager in Mumbai, a trip to Achara was a bit overdone. Can’t we go elsewhere? I could not understand why at the age of 80 my grandfather would do a rather uncomfortable journey by a state transport bus. My parents and uncles would be cross with him for doing so. Guess, I may have to reason with my father in the coming years!

There is something about Achara that we all seek. It is not just simple village life of solitude. It is just the magic of the place which has not ceased in three generations. Our family has moved from Achara to Mumbai and from Mumbai to UK and USA.

Yet we will keep coming back for more of Achara.