Tuesday, 14 April 2015

Paradise found : The mountains, the sea and a little adventure




The sky was twinkling bright and our stomachs were filled to the bream as we entered our cute villas by the sea. Just as I was relaxing in the shower after an exhausted day, Preeti knocked on the door.
Zorbas Beach Village

‘’Dev has big hives on his body!’’, she declared panic-stricken. Very unlike Preeti. It was nearly midnight on this largest but quiet island in Greece. The sweet resort manager was not answering his call (save his otherwise hospitable demeanour), we did not have a single medicine in our travel kit (surprise, surprise!) and the four of us were frantically trying to call emergency medical help.

Our prayers were answered as an ambulance took apna party-boy Dev away to Chania, the next major town which was 12 miles away for an exciting night-out. So as Adi and I tried to catch forty winks, Preeti being the Pativrata Naari spent her night with very loud nurses. 

We were the early visitors on this serene island where the ‘season’ actually begins mid April. The winds were still strong, restricting any sailing or diving activities. The gorgeous looking snow covered White Mountains were not accessible either as the water flows through the gorges till early spring. 
 
Feeling a little dejected, we hired a taxi ( No, we don’t drive in London ) and drove from north to south of the western side of the island. The island spans 270 km from east to west, has two international airports and is an important naval and air base in the Mediterean sea.
P our very amicable, bulky driver and guide drove us on the road overlooking Souda bay, the naval base. Our next stops were at ancient city ruins of Aptera (7th century B.C.) Many such ruins belonging to Minoans, Byzantines and Romans are scattered around the island.
Ruins at Aptera

We took our own sweet time, touching each brick and plucking wild daisies in this piece of history. The sight of the cistern bought out the singers in Dev and me. Our cacophony managed to get us surprised looks from the fellow tourist audience. Vacations are meant to be silly!

P then drove us through  the pretty villages in the hills. The trees were laden with oranges and lemons. I wondered if the popular rhyme was inspired from this place. 

The only sound was our constant chatter and P’s non-stop calls from clients.

As we neared the south of the island, the clouds and the chill had vanished and bright sunshine welcomed us. Jackets off, sunglasses out.  P who waved at every single passer by on the road throughout the drive directed us to Nikos tavern at Hora Sfakion for lunch. ‘Treat this as your home’, said the welcoming owner, shaking everyone’s hands – a very Greek way.

Harbour of Hora Sfakion
We were in for a feast! The lamb cooked in spicy tomato gravy was one of the best ones I have had in Europe! We relished the ‘feta cheese’ pitas with honey and polished off the souvlakis. The Greeks are certainly the most hospitable folks I have known. Preeti who is a vegetarian was equally delighted with her stew and Greek salad. We ate like there was no tomorrow.
The Xtraaaa Large Platter
P with his soft spoken broken English accompanied us during lunch narrating his experiences on Crete, the future for Greece in these uncertain times and his faith in Alexis Tsipras. His face beamed as a proud father of a daughter who had graduated in Mathematics and wondered what future she had in times where salaries were halved in most work places.

 Just as were about to burp, the chubby owner placed a plate of thick yogurt drizzled with honey and Raki, a local alcohol before us.

Old harbour of Chania
We spent the rest of the day passing various beaches and closed the evening at the old harbour of Chania. The streets near the old harbour are lined up with jewellery stores, leather goods and art shops. Not to forget the several buzzing cafes lined around the harbour. We had enjoyed a large platter of fish the evening before. A platter so large that we had to give up on it. (Including Adi!!!) But Dev still wanted to have some fish that fated evening. Ofcourse, little did he know what he had signed up for.

 The next day arrived with a cloud of doubt. Dev and Preeti had arrived only at 6 am from the hospital. We had plans to walk the Imbros gorge , a 12 km stretch as Samria, the largest gorge in Europe was shut for visitors. ( We were not fit enough to walk it either)

By late morning, Dev and Preeti woke up sportingly. After a few digs at Dev we started our drive for Imbros gorge. All the four of us love walking and this was a must do on our Crete list. The winding roads and clouds on top of the hills reminded us of the drives in the Himalayan foothills. It brought me memories of my last proper holiday with mum and dad. That was nearly 7 years ago! 
Imbros Gorge
Each turn in the gorge brought forward a different sight and a landscape. Black, Brown and Green predominated the pathway. Sometimes a stretch only had grasslands and shrubs while a sudden turn surprised us with slender, tall trees. Herds of sheep greeted us midway as sunshine played peek-a-boo. We threaded over big stones, small pebbles and humungous boulders. Not a single trickle of sweat on our brows. As the wind gently blew in the narrow gorge, we could hear cattle bells in a distance.

 This was a paradise!  This was un adulterated happiness. 
Valley views - Crete

Would we visit Crete again? Most certainly, we have only seen half of Crete. I missed visiting the Knossos Palace. Preeti liked the simplicity of the Cretian people. All of us will try to be fit for Samaria as well. Bonus point are the ferries which depart from Crete to other greek islands in the season. Adi will come for the beautiful curly haired women and food. Did I mention Desserts and Raki are complimentary on the island? 

White mountains - View from the Airport

As for Dev, guess he will be careful with any fishy experience in future. He survived only on bread and selected fruit during the rest of our stay.


All photo credits : My in-house photographer Aditya Pandit

Monday, 8 December 2014

South Africa: Top tips for your travel



It is an exciting continent! Its mysteries always alluring to the world.

We have watched documentaries. We have read it in history. We have seen it in Bollywood songs.
It is Africa. It is South Africa, the nation which altered history and has been witness to a saga of 21st century human rights movement. A true ‘Rainbow’ nation with 11 official languages and multi-ethnic groups.

My imagination had been engulfed  with endless possiblities before I left London for Johannesburg, the financial capital of the nation unfortunately notorious for its crime rate. I didn’t know what to expect. Pretty sights, good food was a safe bet. But essentially the question was how will the people be? How good is the infrastructure? 

My journey began at the Apartheid Museum at Johannesburg. Just the thought of walking through two different entrances – ‘’White’’ and ‘’Not-White’’ a concept made at the museum to remind of those dark days shattered me. Tear drops trickled easily. Imagine not able to play cricket as you were a ‘black’ person.

Humanity is the greatest faith. I am truly thankful for being raised in much free society, a safe place of today. 

The rest of the trip only had pleasant surprises and the interactions with locals were warm.

The food has been greatly influenced by the migrants. The Dutch specialities include the malva pudding/the banting cusine, the French brought the wine, the Indonesian slaves introduced the famous Cape malay cuisine and us Indians invented the Durban Bunny Chow. Not to forget the traditional paap and braai (barbeque) of exotic meats.

Table Mountain Cape Town

My 9 day trip ended with a city visit of Cape Town. A city like any other, a bit crowded, the rich having the best views of the sea and some not so well offs enjoying them as well. A city blessed with the sea and the Table Mountain. The country has it all. 

Now that sounds like a place for retirement, eh?

The local train by the Beach
Here are the learnings from this Big Trip to South Africa. As usual we had done lot of research, asked tips from friends and family and got some tips from locals. There is everything which the country offers, wildlife, wine, surfing, shark diving, gold mines, casinos.... take your pick

Thought would share some tips:
  
      1. Travel Safe
Everybody warned us. We took all precautions and luckily our journey went all right.

i) Do not walk on the streets after dark in South Africa and if possible stick to your hotel room. Seems tough? Start your day early instead.

ii) Do not wear any expensive clothes, jewellery or flash your gadgets including your camera or phone on the street. Avoid big backpacks which give away that you are a tourist. 

iii) Make sure you have emergency numbers handy.Needless to say, buy a travel insurance.

  2. Planning a Safari
A good safari means spending 3-4 days minimum in the wild. Although Kruger is numero uno, South Africa has many parks which will cater to your wildlife fantasy. If you are able to pay the mullah, then private game lodges are ideal. 

i) Safaris are budget breaking and if you are very confident of navigating by yourself with the Big 5 , then self drive and accommodation available in parks is a good option.

ii) Don’t forget to book it advance. Here is the link to the National parks.

iii) Also, take precautionary vaccination/medicines if you are visiting a malaria prone zone.

3. Best option to explore the country
i) Depending on your budget and time available, you can choose to fly around the country or drive around or like us do a bit of both. If you have time at hand then self-drive is best as roads are excellent and drivers can be bit rash. But remember nobody can beat us Indians at rash driving. Any country’s driving license is accepted for renting a car.

ii) Make sure you do not leave anything very valuable or visible when you park the car. Some even suggest not to stop at red signal at night but common sense should prevail.

iii) Fancy having window down and wind flying in your face? Not really the best thing.

There are obviously guided tours available if you are aged 40 and with a family.

     4. Shopping and Tips
V & A Waterfront, Cape town


i) I know you are dying to buy that amazing art craft as a centre piece for your table. But hey, don’t bargain very hard. These traders barely earn anything. Avoid shopping or eating at V&A waterfront at Cape Town, it is very touristy.

ii) Paying 10% of your restaurant bill is common practice and your tip would be welcomed with a generous smile. Also tip the hotel staff and the parking attendants.

 Bon Voyage! Cape of Good Hope awaits you.


Saturday, 6 December 2014

South Africa : Cape Town : Cape of Good Eats and Priceless Views



It was a Big Day! The most awaited part of the trip. A drive around the Cape Peninsula. 

We had infact drove almost half way through the Peninsula over the False Bay from Fansschoek via Grabouw to the boutique hotel near Simons town.
Road via Grabouw


‘’Oooohhss, Ahhhhs’’ , I marvelled at every turn a bit to Adi’s annoyance. Adi only punctuated with choicest Marathi words instead!
This route was so picturesque. We wondered what views the rest of the Peninsula had for us.
Another road in Cape Town

Penguins on the beach


It was a Big Day! It was Adi’s Birthday. What do I gift a person who thinks that it is just another day?
A Birthday card besides his bedside wishing him a great day!
Whale view Manor

We stayed at Whale View Manor, a boutique hotel situated 10 mins from the Penguin colony at Boulders beach. '' Woww'', both of us exclaimed when the breakfast arrived.
Now thats Breakfast at Whale view Manor

Soon,  we drove off on the winding road with mountain to our right and emerald blue waters to our left. 

Dil Chahta Hai.....We sang merrirly (with twisted lyrics.....Rangile Din, Masti ke din :P)


Within 10 minutes we reached the Table Mountain nature park gate at  Buffelsfontein for Cape Point or Cape of Good Hope . One can drive around the nature park to soak up in the gorgeous views and bright sunlight.

View near Cape Point. Can we spot a whale?


 If you are little adventurous you can cycle or trek in the area or have a picnic if you have bunch of kids. 
Protea


It was a Big Day! We were posing at the Cape of Good Hope!

The Birthday Boy!

Later we hiked our way to Cape Point and the Light house. The flying Dutchman is an excellent way of going up and enjoying excellent views if you are tired.
Moi

The sun was shining bright and Mr.Sun (Adi) was hungry. Time for Birthday lunch at Two Oceans Restaurant which was packed with tourists! The restaurant offered excellent views and amazing sea food…… the prawns, the calamari, linguines and hake….yummmm.


The Birthday lunch. Burrp

 Cape Town is a paradise for fish lovers.

After the hearty lunch, we went off to Hout Bay via the spectaular Chapmans Peak drive ….
The sights on this road are an absolute delight… thank you Sir Frederic De Waal for the amazing engineering in 1922.

Chapmans peak drive
We were in two minds about the dinner plans.
Shall we drive to the city or shall we try something close by? we pondered.

Hout Bay view

A walk at 5.30p.m. at Simon’s town, the previous evening was a bit disappointing. Hailing from Mumbai, I hate to see shops and cafes closed at 5.30 p.m.

Noordhoek Beach

Our friendly manager at Whale View Manor had suggested that we visit the Thursday community market at Cape Point vineyard at Noordhoek. ‘’Lets give it a try’’, both of us agreed, after all it was suggested by a local.
And boy did we love the place! A market offering different cuisines and freshest produce ensured the quality was avant grade . It was 5 pm and the place was filling in fast. Children were frolicking around with an ice cream, adults were relaxing with a drink, someone was playing a guitar, there was laughter and merriment in the air!
Priceless evening at Cape Point vineyard!


We sat down on a picnic bench whispering sweet nothings…. The view priceless…
It was a Big Day, indeed! Touchwood*